Finding magic on Hopi land

IMG_7055Hopi land – it’s like magic in a bottle, you want to experience it but you don’t want to be intrusive.

It’s dry out there… which is good since Hopis are some of the best dry farmers in the world.

The Hopi reservation is remote and its smack dab in the middle of the Navajo reservation, which is kind of a cruel joke … since historically Navajos and Hopis don’t get along. Getting to Hopi means you have to drive through the Navajo reservation first. From pretty much any starting point, it’s a good 50-100 miles to Hopi from the Navajo rez line. Determining where each nation’s land starts and ends goes way back. The issue still makes its way into tribal council today. For Hopi and Navajo the land is sacred. It’s more than just a patch of dirt in the desert. Their ancestors spent generations on the land sacrificing and fighting for their inheritance.

IMG_7053I spent most of my life passing through these reservations. To this day I am still struck by the harsh solitude and strong features it possesses. The land is like a beautiful woman – full of natural grace and dignity. She knows she’s beautiful and you want to bask in the glow of that beauty. It’s a slower pace on the rez, both of them. When you cross the rez line time slows down and you suddenly appreciate the striking balance of curvy corners and jagged edges. Pure magic.

Every time I visit Hopi my heart is both more and less full. The people, culture and land possess such beauty but there is also some undeniably deep rooted, emotion jerking issues threatening to swallow up the nation. I am excited and terrified for the future of people living on reservations.

Speaking to the current chairman and vice chairman of the Hopi Tribe and all the candidates running for these positions and mingling with the locals gave me a new perspective on what is happening on Hopi.

I’m a journalist. Part of my job is to help bring to light some of these issues and talk to the people who are living their realities in these areas.

You see, my visit to Hopi land was not for idle curiosity or sightseeing. I came with a mission and I had two days to achieve it. First stop was the Hopi Tribal Complex in Kykotsmovi, just across the Hopi/Navajo border.

When visiting the reservation, always be sure to ask a local for directions. Even if you know where you’re going, trust me, you want to ask for directions. If you want to experience the culture get directions from a local. It will probably go something like this … “you’re driving from Flag? Oh, yeah, well, you’re probably coming up Route 2 … so what you want to do is stay on that road for about 50 miles until you get to milepost 145. Wait, I live at 149, so let me count backwards … 148, 147, 146 okay, so around milepost 145 or 146 you will see a sign saying ‘Welcome to Kykotsmovi’ you want to turn left and go across the cattle guard and follow that about a mile. You’ll go past red flags and some people selling crafts – don’t mind them, keep going. Then you’ll pass a little store and if you come to some people’s houses you’ve gone too far. You want to look for a two-story, white building. You should be able to see it pretty good. If that doesn’t work you can go around on Route 267 and turn at the other ‘Welcome to Kykotsmovi’ sign ….”

Make sure you write everything down.

The Hopi Tribal Complex is the only large, two-story official looking building on the entire reservation. My mission over the next two days was to interview all 4 candidates running for chairman of the tribe and the 3 candidates running for vice chairman. Easy, right? Not exactly, but two days later I drove home exhausted and successful.

SFTR_Template-2_t715My interviews took place on the doorsteps of the tribal building, in the middle of the market with people purchasing their lunches all around, over breakfast in the only restaurant in a 40 mile radius, and finally in an air-conditioned office with leather armchairs and silver name plates. There’s some striking contrasts on the rez.

One question to the candidates was ‘In your opinion, what are the two biggest issues facing the Hopi Tribe?’ Responses ranged from dwindling revenue sources and lack of education opportunities to transportation issues and the current crisis of drug and alcohol abuse. There are no jobs on Hopi, at least none that will keep the tribe afloat. The eminent closure of the Navajo Generating Station – one of Arizona’s top producing coal refineries accounting for 80 percent of the tribe’s revenue. They are getting ready to be in the middle of a huge financial crisis. They know it and they know they have to address how they plan to fix it since there is currently no back up plan. The generating station was not supposed to close, that wasn’t in the cards. Now there will be fewer jobs and less money unless someone comes up with a solution, real quick like. Good luck candidates. The drug, alcohol and domestic violence on the rez is an issue. It needs to be addressed. Then there’s transportation – or the lack of it. If you can’t get a job on the rez and you don’t have money to buy a vehicle to get to work elsewhere, you’re running into a dead-end.

I went in ignorant and walked out overwhelmed. Overwhelmed and feeling desperate. I drove home with music blaring in my ears, trying to space out before I sat down and processed some of the information and experiences I had just walked away from. IMG_7056

The issues and topics all need addressed but the real underlying issues are much deeper, reaching back to an age-old question of how to bridge two cultures.

The council is desperate to find solutions that will take their people into the 21 century while still maintaining their culture, traditions and beliefs. They can not afford to lose their identity, their language or their customs. IMG_7054

It comes down to asking how to merge modern ideas with ancient traditions. It hardly seems fair for an entire culture to watch modern society’s forward momentum while they must choose to merge past and present for the very survival of their identities. This question strikes home for me. Being half Navajo and half white, I know what it means to be stuck in the middle where choices between family loyalty and cultural identity have to be made. My struggle is small in comparison to the struggle of an entire nation.

When I visit Hopi I make sure I stay long enough to breath in the cool, night air and watch the stars twinkle. Because, despite the issues facing this land and its people, I must believe there is a solution. There has to be – there’s magic on Hopi land.

Every time I visit Hopi my heart is both more and less full. My heart aches for them all.

Hopi land – it’s like magic in a bottle, you want to experience it but you don’t want to intrude.

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Hiking heroes: saving lives and time

Hiking heroes: saving lives and time

untitled-3They can’t tell you to stop but they can give you some life-saving suggestions.

Preventative Search and Rescue (PSAR) rangers are trained EMTs, whose job is to provide guidance on preventing self-injury and hiking smart on Grand Canyon’s trails. When you’ve decided you can’t take one – more – step, they’re there to help you make it to the top.

“It is scary down here and it should be. It’s serious.” Josh Weiner, Grand Canyon PSAR ranger.

Josh Weiner and Ashley Butts, PSAR rangers at Grand Canyon National Park take their job serious. They enjoy what they do – hiking Grand Canyon’s trails, talking to strangers, hanging out … all while calculating in their minds – determining if you are prepared for the hike in and more importantly the hike out.

“Everybody has a different tactic but we all have the same goal,” Butts said. “We are talking to people going down. We say hi to people going up but in my mind, if people are going up and they’re not on the side of the trail puking, they’re doing ok.”

Weiner agreed.

“There’s a big mental aspect down here (in the Canyon),” he said. “People are looking up at the walls and you’re feeling tired… and then we are there telling someone here are electrolytes, mix this in your water … it’s scary down here and it should be. It’s serious.”

I caught up with the two of them in August, for an article I was writing for Grand Canyon News. I wanted to get a first hand glimpse into what their job is all about. We hit the trail a little after 8 a.m.

We decided to go down the Bright Angel Trail on the Canyon’s South Rim. As we set out, hikers meandered down the trail, pausing for pictures and peering over the edge. A mule train rounded the corner and the guide gave a warning hello and directions to stand clear.

The corridor trails – the Bright Angel and South Kaibab are top priority for PSAR. Butts explained how the rangers and volunteers spend the majority of their time canvassing these trails. Other trails they patrol on a daily basis are the Hermit, Tonto and Grandview trails – all on the South Rim.

“A typical morning on the Hermit you see less than 30 people,” she said. “A typical morning on the Bright Angel you’ll see three or four hundred.”

untitled2As we hike they explain, what to me sounds like common sense, but what they say a surprising number of people don’t pay attention to when planning to hike the Canyon. Their first tip – get an early start.

“You can hike to Indian Garden if you’re going downhill early. But if you start now (9:30 a.m.) you’re going to be going uphill at noon and that’s just brutal,” Weiner said. “We encourage people to sit out that entire part of the day (hottest time, typically between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.).”

The people who start their hike super early in the morning they are not as worried about. It’s those who start late in the day, when the heat becomes unbearable and exhaustion sets in, that can later turn into a rescue.

In 2015 almost 29,000 preventative actions were carried out by PSAR rangers. These actions could be as simple as suggesting an alternative route or distance of a planned hike and handing out a package of Fritos. They could also be much more serious, where a PSAR ranger spends eight hours hiking out with a distressed hiker or providing basic emergency services until help arrives.

In 2015, PSAR made contact with 117,267 hikers, made 29,000 preventative actions to help a hiker and helped with over 350 hiker assists.

PSAR at the Canyon has been a jumping off point for other preventative operations in the NPS, including Yosemite.

“Grand Canyon’s PSAR program has been in existence for about 20 years now,” said Ben Cooper, PSAR supervisor at the Canyon. According to Cooper, in its infancy Grand Canyon’s PSAR was much less established until a spike in heat related incidents in the mid 1990s caused the NPS to consider the idea of getting rangers on the trails to assess situations before they turned into full-scale emergencies.

This is Butts second year as a seasonal PSAR ranger. PSAR offers an opportunity to do what she loves – put her EMT training to use and work outside.

untitled-5We pause and Butts asks an older man with a full pack and sweat drenched shirt and bandana how far he’s going.

“I’ve got a backcountry permit for Bright Angel Campground,” he responds, leaning heavily on his hiking poles.

Butts looks at him closely and gently explains it’s a 10 mile hike to the campground and how right now, the going down is the easy part. The hard part is coming up the trail, after you’re exhausted and filthy.

He nods, taking in what she’s telling him. A few minutes later he turns around and is headed back up the trail. Confirming that only a mile in, his knees are already aching and his pack is too heavy.

Butts and I make eye contact and I knowingly nod my head, silently agreeing with her – that could have turned into a bad situation.

We reached a good turn around point and ready ourselves for the uphill trek. On a daily basis Butts and Weiner each carry a hiking pack weighing between 25 to 35 pound, depending on how far down the trail they’re going.

untitledLater they dump their pack and show me what’s inside; a medical kit, radio, snacks – Fritos, Cheez-Its, Goldfish, an MRE (meals ready to eat), compass, GPS, electrolyte packages for water, two headlamps, tarp, hiking poles, spray bottle of water and personal food and water.

“You should always carry enough water for yourself, for the day (and) water is important but so is food,” Butts says as she explains the ‘Drink to Thirst’ which is new verbiage the NPS is using on trailhead signs around the park.

We continue on, the rim growing steadily closer. Hikers pass us and Butts and Weiner greet each of them with a friendly smile and a pointed question. Where are you headed today? How far are you going? How are you feeling?

“It’s hard to know how effective you are but it’s safe to say we are effective,” Weiner said. “It’s not a ridiculous assumption to say that one of these people would have died if they had gone on.”

“We have a big thing we call psychological first aid,” Butts adds. “Which is a huge part of job. We encourage people, help them get there in their head to be able to keep going. It’s a huge deal and I’d say most of the time when we’re called down trail for a hiker assist that’s what it is. They need someone to encourage them to make it and help them and be with them.”

untitled-4As we reach the trailhead Butts and Weiner head off, their packs full, their mission clear – saving lives and reminding visitors to stop and smell the roses.

¡Viva México! Dipping into Puerto Vallarta

¡Viva México! Dipping into Puerto Vallarta

DSCF3437mexico 35Mexico is a country of contrasts. It’s a sexy country – as most Latin American countries are. The women are unashamed of their full, curvy figures and the men whistle their approval in unabashed public displays of attention.

It’s true, there’s something to be said about the country itself – how it’s sizzling hot summer sun beams down on half naked bodies as they bake themselves golden brown on the sandy beaches of resorts and how it settles on the bent, brown backs of laborers making steady stops to peddle their wares day by day to those same scantily clad bodies. At the end of the day, tourist and laborer dream of Corona, ceviche and top shelf margaritas. mexico 23

Yes, Mexico is full of contrasts, which is half of its charm and one reason it has always been close to my heart. Either that or growing up a few hundred miles from the border has made me dream of the country below ‘the wall’ more than once.

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The Wall built along the U.S./Mexico border to dissuade illegal immigration and activity. There is around 2,000 miles of border between the U.S. and Mexico.

 

Mexico has more than one scene, which is all dependent on where you visit – there’s the dirty border crossings which separate the U.S. and Mexico. These crossings can make your skin crawl and is one reason tourists can be easily deterred from visiting. With border guards carry Ak – 47s and watching you like you might be smuggling next year’s supply of coke into the U.S., it makes you think that maybe you should have listened to your parent’s advice and road tripped through New Mexico because, ‘it’s practically the same place.’

But if you’re smart and willing to go further into Mexico, it is a country full of surprises. mexico 25Once you get past the border (take a plane, it’s safer and easier!) You’ll find a world of bronzed bodies, toothy smiles, delectable margaritas and flavor popping Dos Equis waiting to be explored.

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One of the top tourist destinations in Mexico is Puerto Vallarta, a resort town on Mexico’s Pacific coast. As a tourist destination it’s got a lot going for it. There are any number of adventure tours that will take you high into the tropical canopies to go ziplining or take a horseback riding adventure. The ocean is a steady presence and offers whale watching, swimming with dolphins, snorkeling, parasailing, sea kayaking and sailing. There’s no end to historical and cultural tours to nearby mountain towns including San Sabastian, a two hour drive that lets you explore the countryside. The lazy beach town of Las Caletas gives you the opportunity to hone your surfing skills or take lessons and try surfing for the first time. Of course a number of walking tours let you discover the city on foot.

For the adventurous I suggest going to a public beach and getting your feet wet with the locals. Dive into the food! Make sure you try Pescado Vallarta – a melt in your mouth marinated fish I had at a beachside cafe during an afternoon at Mismoloya Beach. Fish Tacos and margaritas are always a must have and lucky for the tourist, Mexican’s know exactly what most tourists are after and are happy to oblige.

DSCF3574DSCF3605The tacos really are to die for. And if you spend very long in Puerto Vallarta you’ll find your way to the Malecón, a 12-block, mile-long boardwalk of beachfront properties. The Malecón is a shoppers paradise, a foodies dream and a boozers haven. DSCF3588DSCF3536DSCF3879DSCF3890It offers a little for everyone. During the day the Malecón and all of Puerto Vallarta is a bustling city filled with life – tourists lying stateside of luxury pools outside manicured beaches while locals hustle to make a peso, urging their children out the doors of their casitas. It’s a city and a country of contrast, with tourists hidden behind marbled floors and ceilings and locals looking out for their own.

The city itself is a municipality in the state of Jalisco, a western Mexican state known for its mariachi music and tequila. It’s said both originated in Jalisco.

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When visiting Puerto Vallarta – or anywhere, really, it’s always smart to get outside your comfort zone, throw around some words in the local dialect and try and make a few new friends. That’s where you’ll find the true heartbeat of the city and see where it’s pulse starts. You’ll have a much truer sense of exactly what the country and culture are.

When you get up early to see the sunrise over the ocean you might be lucky enough to see a fishermen get the jump on the first catch of the day. If you’re really lucky you might get invited to be a guest and share a meal or a cerveza in a neighbor’s home. That’s where the magic happens – watching or helping put a pot of frijoles on the stove to soak or using car rims to barbecue carne asada and pork for tacos.

It’s worth it to spend time away from the beach and glamour of what most tourists experience to get a deeper look at authentic Mexico. Who knows, maybe you’ll spend your birthday in a new friend’s casa and have a birthday party and a haircut in the living room all in the same afternoon. mexico 50 mexico 19 mexico 36

Like much of Mexico, Puerto Vallarta is full of contrasts. It is a city boasting of relaxation and pampering on one corner and a city of everyday complexities on the next. mexico 28mexico 10mexico 22 mexico 21mexico 3DSCF3811mexico 30DSCF3703mexico 2mexico 39